Spring 2007: Out of the Box

Designers, slaves to commercial demand and overhead costs as they are, are always allowed a degree of leway when it comes to the creative direction of their latest collections. After all, what makes one designer stand out from the others is their point of view and personal vision: it should be taken for granted that such liberties affect the outcome of 6 months hard work strutting down the runway. However, while overviewing the spring 2007 shows in the latest issue of Vogue and on everyone's favorite, style.com, I noticed that many designers this season decided to flex their artisitic muscles. Some very unique creations were sent down the catwalk. I can certainly admire the bold risk taking of certain low-profile designers; it takes major bollocks to send something daring and crazy down the catwalk knowing full well that you don't have LVMH or the Gucci Group to save your ass if it doesn't fly.
However, after looking at the collections of certain higher profile designers, I was disappointed. Maybe the design concept exploded in the hanger or died from lack of oxygen in the womb before it could hit the runway: I'm not one to talk about what goes on between June and December that the media can't cover. I've concluded that there is a broad spectrum of risk taking when it comes to fashion, and certain designers are simply more capable of guaging it than others. It is a highly individualistic trait that varies widely: Diane Von Furstenburg's famous black wrap dress may be another designer's Galliano Winter 2006 collection. But before I lose myself here, let's have a look at some of this upcoming season's winners and losers when it comes to thinking outside the box:

Winner: Hussein Chalayan- The Robot Dress






Again, Chalayan has demonstrated his fabulous creative capabilities using out of the ordinary materials (remember the Chalayan wooden skirt?). This dress transforms from sexy, flashy night-out frock to a provocative, sophisticated summer dress with a system of springs and cogs. Only Hussein Chalayan could unite science and fashion in such a tasteful manner.

Loser:
Karl Lagerfeld- Chanel Box Suit



I first found this piece while looking through the December issue of US Vogue, where Lagerfeld was lauded for his updated version of the classic Chanel Suit. While Lagerfeld is usually the infallable face of Chanel, a position deserving of the utmost respect and reverence, I have to say: he really screwed this one up (to be perfect frank). While the suit take by itself is marvelous with its understated simplicity of construction and demure choice of fabric, it flops royally when you find out that this is his representation of the classic Chanel suit. The keyhole top has no place in the piece de resistance of classic fashion, as neither do the drainpipe trousers and construction. The boxcut seems to have been altogether weeded out in favor of a more tailored fit, and the exclusion of the skirt in favor of drainpipes is a modern twist gone awry. Nice try this time, Karl, but the classics never die.